Showing posts with label Gwalior. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gwalior. Show all posts

Friday, 18 May 2018

Summer 2018 -- Day 15

10:10 AM We left the hotel after breakfast.

12:08 PM Stopped at Tourist Motel in Datia for a break.
2:15 PM Stopped at Highway Dhaba near Lalitpur. The dhaba was pretty basic one and the food was just ordinary.
6:20 PM Arrived in Bhopal.

Summer 2018 -- Day 14

10:45 AM We started from Noida, quickly got on to Yamuna Expressway. We had planned on leaving earlier but we got delayed and we ran the risk of sun-set before we could reach today's destination.
11:45 AM Stopped at the rest area on YEW for a break and coffee.
Since we were running late, we decided to skip Lunch and have a driving lunch in the car itself so that we can give us enough time to see all the place that we had planned on seeing.
4:20 PM We reached Mitaoli or Mitavali. This is where one sees a circular temple.

The temple at Mitaoli located on an isolated hillock is known as Ekottarso Mahadeva Temple among the local inhabitants. The place of this temple is rather peculiar and is very much similar to the layout plan of Chausath Yogini temples which contain cells in a circle around the main temple similar to the one located at Bheraghat near Jabalpur.
The temple has an entrance from the east and contains small cells against a pillared verandah. Some of these cells contain sivalingas. The main shrine in the center is placed on a raised circular plinth and has a Siva Linga. On the basis of the inscription, this temple was constructed in 1323 AD by Maharaja Devapala. At the foothill of the temple, some life-sized stone sculptures of Kushana period, adorned with heavy ornaments have been recovered which are now displayed in the archaeological museum, Gwalior Fort, Gwalior.
We left Mitaoli temple at 4:56 PM  for Padhavali temple which is a 6-minute drive away.
5:02 PM We arrived in Padhavali temple.

The temple of Garhi Padhavali originally consisted of Sanctum Sanctorum and Mandapa, which is mostly obliterated except ornately designed Mukhamandapa, standard on the entrance of the temple.  Built over a considerable raised Adhisthana, it might be dedicated to Siva, as evident from the huge Nandi found from the temple ruins. The interior of the structure is richly carved with designed, friezes of sculptures of various divinities of Brahmanical pantheon -- Brahma, Vishnu, Maheshwar, Surya, Ganesha, Chandi, and incarnations of Vishnu. The reliefs also narrate the mythological story from the epics and Puranas. The carvings reflect the art and culture of the period.
The study of the original feature of the temple shows, it was built during 10th century AD. Later on, the temple was fortified by the rulers of Jat Ranas of Gohad during 19th century AD.
We left Padavali at 5:23 PM towards Bateswar temples which is a 5-minute drive from padavali.
5:33 PM We arrived in Bateswar group of temples.

A group of ruined temples spread over the western slope of an isolated hill is located south-west of Padavali village in Morena district of Madhya Pradesh. Made of stone masonry, the ruins comprised of the temple remains, gateways, stepped tanks, architectural members, Amalakas, Brahmanical icons etc. This group of temples can be stylistically ascribed to post-Gupta to early Pratihara period ranging from 6th to 9th century AD. It shows the early stages of development of temple art. The earliest group of temples are having sanctum proper with flat roof while the temples of later phases are possessed with curvilinear shikhara over the sanctums. One of the surviving temples, dedicated to Lord Siva known as Bhuteswara temple, shows all the features of Pratihara art.
Some of the temples are reconstructed by the archaeological survey of India recently in its original form and renovated most of the structures.
This site has hundreds of temples and their remains. We spent almost an hour here. By this time sun had almost set and we left the place of the hotel in Gwalior.
We had booked ourselves on Hotel Deo Bagh. Here is our review of the place.

Sunday, 22 January 2017

Day 9 -- Agra to Sagar

9:30 AM We started from Agra after the breakfast. The roads were foggy and the progress was slow.

11:20 AM After two hours of driving, we were near Gwalior. This section of the route has pretty much zero facilities on the highway, so we decided to take a small detour towards the Gwalior town and stop at the Barista.
The place is good, and it is around one kilometer from the national highway and the approach road to the place is not crowded at all. So this makes for a good stopping point particularly if one is traveling with the family. Here are my thoughts on the place.
We continued after a small break at Barista and soon hit the bad Gwalior-Jhansi section of the road. This road is pretty bad and shows no sigh of being improved. 

1:20 PM We realized that we were near Datia and decided to stop at MP Tourist motel for a lunch. That would save us from going into Jhansi city to look for food. When in Madhya Pradesh, it is always a good idea to look for MP Tourish Motels, they are pretty good for small breaks and food.
Jhansi Fort
2:30 PM We started after lunch.
3:10 PM We crossed Jhansi
4:10 PM We crossed Lalitpur
4:40 PM We crossed Malthone
5:20 PM We were in Sagar.

Tuesday, 18 October 2016

1857 Trip

I had in my mind to travel to places that were significant during 1857 freedom struggle, rebellion or sepoy mutiny. You can choose the phrase depending on your choice. As part of my background research on the topic which was primarily limited to the internet, following places found mention as significant places during the event.

  1. Barrackpore
  2. Meerut
  3. Jhansi
  4. Gwalior
  5. Lucknow
  6. Kanpur
  7. Delhi
Some of the places are very significant in regards to 1857 rebellion but there is nothing left now to see. For example, places like Kanpur, Meerut have nothing or very little left that points to that event.
Based on availability of time and our understanding of the importance of the places, we decided the itinerary.

Total toll amount paid during the trips was ₹ 4505/-.
Last time around when I traveled, I saw many FasTag lanes operational but this time I saw most of those were barricaded out. In some places when I argued with the security present, they opened the lane but in many places, they told me to do whatever I can.
The deteriorated quality of road had one casualty. One of my tires had a side wall fracture and the last segments of trips were challenging because of that.  It was an interesting trip, would have liked to see more preserved monuments related to 1857 movement but what we saw was priceless.

Day 5 -- Lucknow to Gwalior via Jhansi

The days' plan was to go to Kanpur, Jhansi and finally end up in Gwalior. As we did more research on places to see in Kanpur and the fact that we had to drive into the city to reach those places, we decided to drop those from our itinerary.
The day we were planning to this trip, Prime Minister was visiting the Lucknow city, so we quickly wanted to get out of the city.
9:05 AM We start from our hotel after breakfast and quickly progress towards Kanpur road.
10:20 AM We crossed Unnao.
10:45 AM We crossed Kanpur town.
As we were looking for opportunities for a break, we did not find anything that looked decent. Most of the places on this route are plain Dhaba with no toilet breaks etc. So we finally reached back at Govindam Hotel where we had stayed during our earlier run.
12:00 PM We reached Hotel Govindam for a bio and tea break.
As we near Jhansi, we start looking for a restaur
ant for Lunch. We find Hotel Haveli recommended well on Tripadvisor and we decide to stop there for Lunch. it is pretty close to the Fort.
2:05 PM We stopped for Lunch at Hotel Haveli. It is an half an hour break. The restaurant is decent and serves a thali style lunch.
2:45 PM We reach Jhansi Fort. It is a smaller fort compared to other forts but has its own character. The fort has been ruined to some extent by some telecom operators putting their microwave station but still it is a good sight.

The construction of Jhansi fort is ascribed to Bundela Chief Raja Bir Singh Deo of Orchha in 1613 AD. it was one of the strongholds of the Bundelas till it passed into the hands of the Mughals for the next hundred years and subsequently came under the possession of the Marathas for another hundred years. The Maratha Chief Naru Shankar enlarged the Shankargarh area of the fort in 1729-30. During the first war of Independence of 1857 it passed into the hands of British who defeated Rani Lakshmi Bai and took possession of the fort.
The fort proper has occupied an area of 15 acres. Altogether there are twenty two bastions with a massive fortification wall and moats on two sides. The old city wall had ten gates and four Khirkis. The gates are known as Khanderao, Datia, Unnao, Orchcha, Baragaon, Lakshmi Sagar, Sainyar, Bhander, and Jhirna. Four kirkis are Ganpatgir ki Khirki, Alighol ki Khirki, Sujan Khan ki Khirki and Sagar Khirki. The important structures in the fort are Baradari, Panchmahal, Shankargarh, Memorial Cemetery, Kal Kothari, Hanging Sport, Ganesh Temple, and Shiv Mandir are made in traditional Maratha style.
Graves of Gulam Gaus Khan, Khudabaksha, Moti Bai, the three faithful military officers of Rani Laxmi Bai and Kadak Bijli, Bhavani Shankar canons and Jumping sport are major attractions for tourists. It is said that Rani Jhansi along with her adopted son jumped out of the fort from the said spot.

Kadak Bijli
The great canon of Gangadhar Rao is still visible in the eastern side of the rampart. It used to lighten from its nozzle at the time of operation which is curved like a lion mouth and as such it received this name. Gulam Gaus Khan used to operate this canon. The total measurement of the canon is 5.5 meters X 1.8 meters. It has a diameter of 0.60 meter.
Kal Kothari
Originally Kal Kothari was a prison room built by the Marathas and used for the said purpose. The british added another floor to it and used it for the same purpose.

Place where Rani Jhansi Jumped with her horse from

Panch Mahal
Originally the panch mahal had five stories and was built by Raja Bir Sing Deo (1611-1627 AD). But presently only three stories are existing. Rani Laxmi Bai used the ground floor of the Mahal as the conference room. She stayed in one of the corner rooms in first floor.

We are done with the fort at 3:40 PM. As you leave the fort, the famous poem by Subhadra Kumari Chauhan on Rani Laxmi Bai is at the gate.

सिंहासन हिल उठे राजवंशों ने भृकुटी तानी थी,
बूढ़े भारत में भी आई फिर से नयी जवानी थी,
गुमी हुई आज़ादी की कीमत सबने पहचानी थी,
दूर फिरंगी को करने की सबने मन में ठानी थी।

चमक उठी सन सत्तावन में, वह तलवार पुरानी थी,
बुंदेले हरबोलों के मुँह हमने सुनी कहानी थी,
खूब लड़ी मर्दानी वह तो झाँसी वाली रानी थी॥

कानपूर के नाना की, मुँहबोली बहन छबीली थी,
लक्ष्मीबाई नाम, पिता की वह संतान अकेली थी,
नाना के सँग पढ़ती थी वह, नाना के सँग खेली थी,
बरछी, ढाल, कृपाण, कटारी उसकी यही सहेली थी।

वीर शिवाजी की गाथायें उसको याद ज़बानी थी,
बुंदेले हरबोलों के मुँह हमने सुनी कहानी थी,
खूब लड़ी मर्दानी वह तो झाँसी वाली रानी थी॥

लक्ष्मी थी या दुर्गा थी वह स्वयं वीरता की अवतार,
देख मराठे पुलकित होते उसकी तलवारों के वार,
नकली युद्ध-व्यूह की रचना और खेलना खूब शिकार,
सैन्य घेरना, दुर्ग तोड़ना ये थे उसके प्रिय खिलवाड़।

महाराष्ट्र-कुल-देवी उसकी भी आराध्य भवानी थी,
बुंदेले हरबोलों के मुँह हमने सुनी कहानी थी,
खूब लड़ी मर्दानी वह तो झाँसी वाली रानी थी॥

हुई वीरता की वैभव के साथ सगाई झाँसी में,
ब्याह हुआ रानी बन आई लक्ष्मीबाई झाँसी में,
राजमहल में बजी बधाई खुशियाँ छाई झाँसी में,
सुघट बुंदेलों की विरुदावलि-सी वह आयी थी झांसी में।

चित्रा ने अर्जुन को पाया, शिव को मिली भवानी थी,
बुंदेले हरबोलों के मुँह हमने सुनी कहानी थी,
खूब लड़ी मर्दानी वह तो झाँसी वाली रानी थी॥

उदित हुआ सौभाग्य, मुदित महलों में उजियाली छाई,
किंतु कालगति चुपके-चुपके काली घटा घेर लाई,
तीर चलाने वाले कर में उसे चूड़ियाँ कब भाई,
रानी विधवा हुई, हाय! विधि को भी नहीं दया आई।

निसंतान मरे राजाजी रानी शोक-समानी थी,
बुंदेले हरबोलों के मुँह हमने सुनी कहानी थी,
खूब लड़ी मर्दानी वह तो झाँसी वाली रानी थी॥

बुझा दीप झाँसी का तब डलहौज़ी मन में हरषाया,
राज्य हड़प करने का उसने यह अच्छा अवसर पाया,
फ़ौरन फौजें भेज दुर्ग पर अपना झंडा फहराया,
लावारिस का वारिस बनकर ब्रिटिश राज्य झाँसी आया।

अश्रुपूर्ण रानी ने देखा झाँसी हुई बिरानी थी,
बुंदेले हरबोलों के मुँह हमने सुनी कहानी थी,
खूब लड़ी मर्दानी वह तो झाँसी वाली रानी थी॥

अनुनय विनय नहीं सुनती है, विकट शासकों की माया,
व्यापारी बन दया चाहता था जब यह भारत आया,
डलहौज़ी ने पैर पसारे, अब तो पलट गई काया,
राजाओं नव्वाबों को भी उसने पैरों ठुकराया।

रानी दासी बनी, बनी यह दासी अब महरानी थी,
बुंदेले हरबोलों के मुँह हमने सुनी कहानी थी,
खूब लड़ी मर्दानी वह तो झाँसी वाली रानी थी॥

छिनी राजधानी दिल्ली की, लखनऊ छीना बातों-बात,
कैद पेशवा था बिठूर में, हुआ नागपुर का भी घात,
उदैपुर, तंजौर, सतारा,कर्नाटक की कौन बिसात?
जब कि सिंध, पंजाब ब्रह्म पर अभी हुआ था वज्र-निपात।

बंगाले, मद्रास आदि की भी तो वही कहानी थी,
बुंदेले हरबोलों के मुँह हमने सुनी कहानी थी,
खूब लड़ी मर्दानी वह तो झाँसी वाली रानी थी॥

रानी रोयीं रनिवासों में, बेगम ग़म से थीं बेज़ार,
उनके गहने कपड़े बिकते थे कलकत्ते के बाज़ार,
सरे आम नीलाम छापते थे अंग्रेज़ों के अखबार,
'नागपुर के ज़ेवर ले लो लखनऊ के लो नौलख हार'।

यों परदे की इज़्ज़त परदेशी के हाथ बिकानी थी,
बुंदेले हरबोलों के मुँह हमने सुनी कहानी थी,
खूब लड़ी मर्दानी वह तो झाँसी वाली रानी थी॥

कुटियों में भी विषम वेदना, महलों में आहत अपमान,
वीर सैनिकों के मन में था अपने पुरखों का अभिमान,
नाना धुंधूपंत पेशवा जुटा रहा था सब सामान,
बहिन छबीली ने रण-चण्डी का कर दिया प्रकट आहवान।

हुआ यज्ञ प्रारम्भ उन्हें तो सोई ज्योति जगानी थी,
बुंदेले हरबोलों के मुँह हमने सुनी कहानी थी,
खूब लड़ी मर्दानी वह तो झाँसी वाली रानी थी॥

महलों ने दी आग, झोंपड़ी ने ज्वाला सुलगाई थी,
यह स्वतंत्रता की चिनगारी अंतरतम से आई थी,
झाँसी चेती, दिल्ली चेती, लखनऊ लपटें छाई थी,
मेरठ, कानपुर,पटना ने भारी धूम मचाई थी,

जबलपुर, कोल्हापुर में भी कुछ हलचल उकसानी थी,
बुंदेले हरबोलों के मुँह हमने सुनी कहानी थी,
खूब लड़ी मर्दानी वह तो झाँसी वाली रानी थी॥

इस स्वतंत्रता महायज्ञ में कई वीरवर आए काम,
नाना धुंधूपंत, ताँतिया, चतुर अज़ीमुल्ला सरनाम,
अहमदशाह मौलवी, ठाकुर कुँवरसिंह सैनिक अभिराम,
भारत के इतिहास गगन में अमर रहेंगे जिनके नाम।

लेकिन आज जुर्म कहलाती उनकी जो कुरबानी थी,
बुंदेले हरबोलों के मुँह हमने सुनी कहानी थी,
खूब लड़ी मर्दानी वह तो झाँसी वाली रानी थी॥

इनकी गाथा छोड़, चले हम झाँसी के मैदानों में,
जहाँ खड़ी है लक्ष्मीबाई मर्द बनी मर्दानों में,
लेफ्टिनेंट वाकर आ पहुँचा, आगे बढ़ा जवानों में,
रानी ने तलवार खींच ली, हुया द्वंद असमानों में।

ज़ख्मी होकर वाकर भागा, उसे अजब हैरानी थी,
बुंदेले हरबोलों के मुँह हमने सुनी कहानी थी,
खूब लड़ी मर्दानी वह तो झाँसी वाली रानी थी॥

रानी बढ़ी कालपी आई, कर सौ मील निरंतर पार,
घोड़ा थक कर गिरा भूमि पर गया स्वर्ग तत्काल सिधार,
यमुना तट पर अंग्रेज़ों ने फिर खाई रानी से हार,
विजयी रानी आगे चल दी, किया ग्वालियर पर अधिकार।

अंग्रेज़ों के मित्र सिंधिया ने छोड़ी राजधानी थी,
बुंदेले हरबोलों के मुँह हमने सुनी कहानी थी,
खूब लड़ी मर्दानी वह तो झाँसी वाली रानी थी॥

विजय मिली, पर अंग्रेज़ों की फिर सेना घिर आई थी,
अबके जनरल स्मिथ सम्मुख था, उसने मुहँ की खाई थी,
काना और मंदरा सखियाँ रानी के संग आई थी,
युद्ध श्रेत्र में उन दोनों ने भारी मार मचाई थी।

पर पीछे ह्यूरोज़ आ गया, हाय! घिरी अब रानी थी,
बुंदेले हरबोलों के मुँह हमने सुनी कहानी थी,
खूब लड़ी मर्दानी वह तो झाँसी वाली रानी थी॥

तो भी रानी मार काट कर चलती बनी सैन्य के पार,
किन्तु सामने नाला आया, था वह संकट विषम अपार,
घोड़ा अड़ा, नया घोड़ा था, इतने में आ गये सवार,
रानी एक, शत्रु बहुतेरे, होने लगे वार-पर-वार।

घायल होकर गिरी सिंहनी उसे वीर गति पानी थी,
बुंदेले हरबोलों के मुँह हमने सुनी कहानी थी,
खूब लड़ी मर्दानी वह तो झाँसी वाली रानी थी॥

रानी गई सिधार चिता अब उसकी दिव्य सवारी थी,
मिला तेज से तेज, तेज की वह सच्ची अधिकारी थी,
अभी उम्र कुल तेइस की थी, मनुज नहीं अवतारी थी,
हमको जीवित करने आयी बन स्वतंत्रता-नारी थी,

दिखा गई पथ, सिखा गई हमको जो सीख सिखानी थी,
बुंदेले हरबोलों के मुँह हमने सुनी कहानी थी,
खूब लड़ी मर्दानी वह तो झाँसी वाली रानी थी॥

जाओ रानी याद रखेंगे ये कृतज्ञ भारतवासी,
यह तेरा बलिदान जगावेगा स्वतंत्रता अविनासी,
होवे चुप इतिहास, लगे सच्चाई को चाहे फाँसी,
हो मदमाती विजय, मिटा दे गोलों से चाहे झाँसी।

तेरा स्मारक तू ही होगी, तू खुद अमिट निशानी थी,
बुंदेले हरबोलों के मुँह हमने सुनी कहानी थी,
खूब लड़ी मर्दानी वह तो झाँसी वाली रानी थी॥

We start our journey towards Gwalior which is our stop for the night. The road from Jhansi to Gwalior is challenging.
6:30 PM We reach the hotel in Gwalior. We stayed at Usha Kiran Palace, Here is my review of the hotel.

Day 6 -- Gwalior

The plan for the day was to visit places in Gwalior. I was aware that Rani Laxmi Bai finally died in Gwalior and her samadhi is somewhere in the city. The place was much harder to find than what I thought.

Maharani Laxmi Bai Smarak
We spent around 20 minutes at the smarak. There is nothing much to do here. The next stop was Gwalior Fort. We took the usual route and on reach closer to the fort, we were told that the road is closed because of Muharram procession being taken out on that road. The police man on duty told us that we should go vial the road that goes towards Mental Hospital.

Man Singh Palace is one of the finest example of Hindu Architecture. It was built by Tomar king Man Singh Tomar in 1508 AD. There are total four stories of the palace of which two stories are underground. The plan on the third story consists of two open courtyards and various rooms supported by different decorated pillars and brackets. There are Jhulaghar, Kesar Kinda and Phansighar below this story.
The palace is decorated with beautiful paintings, glazed tiles of varied colors, different figures like human beings, ducks, elephants, peacocks, lions, plantain trees and attractive pillared domes. The palace is built on the outer wall of the fort raised over the cliff at about 300 feet from the ground level. In Sixteenth century when the fort was captures by the Mughals, this palace was used as a state prison.

Vikram Mahal mandir was constructed by Raja Mansing's Son and heir Vikramaditya (1516-1523). There is a baradari in the middle with a room on each side. The length of the place is about 65 meters.

Jahangir Mahal and Shahjahan Mahal are in same complex. As per Hiraman Munshi it as also known as Sher Mandir which was made by Sher Shah. The palace was later restored by Jahangir. In the north east direction of Jahangir Mahal is Shahjahan Mahal which was made by Shahjahan. The palaces were built in Mughal architecture. The length and breadth are 98X52 meters.

View of Gwalior City 
View of Gurjari Mahal from the top
We could not visit Gurjari Mahal because it was closed on the day due to a holiday.

View from the top
Next stop was Jai Vilas Palace.


BMW Izetta Car

Dining Table with the train
By the time we were done with the palace it was 6:30 PM, time to call it a night. We returned back to hotel.

Day 7 -- Gwalior to Sagar via Orchha

8:40 AM Day to leave Gwalior. We were so fed up with the bad food in Taj, we decided to try some local stuff for breakfast. We were told that a shop called S S Kachoriwala may be a good bet. So we checkedout and headed for the shop and then leave to Orchcha.
It is a non-descript shop but makes hot kachoris and samosa. We got some packed and left.
It is approximately three hours journey to Orchcha. We reached there around 12 PM.

We straightaway headed to Betwa Retreet, a MP Tourism hotel for some refreshment before going to Orchcha Fort.
Betwa Retreet
Raja Mahal

Raja Mahal
The construction of the Raja Mahal was started in 1531 AD by Raja Rudra Pratap (1503-1531 AD) and was completed by the year 1539 in the reign of Bharti Chandra (1531-1554 AD). Later on, his successor Madhukar Shah (1554-1592 AD) made some alterations and additions giving it a final shape. Designed on a square plan, the palace is divided into two wings, with five stories on three sides and four stories on one side. The Darbar-e-aam and Darbar-e-khas are quite imposing. The subjects of the painting are mainly the life and deeds of Lord Rama and Krishna. The incarnations of the god Vishnu have also been painted. Nayak, Nayikas, Rag, Raginis, Wrestling, Folk, Hunting and Vignettes and Royal Amusements have also found a place in depictions.
Paintings on the roof

Paintings on the roof

Paintings on the roof

Paintings on the roof

Paintings on the roof

Paintings on the roof

Paintings on the roof

Paintings on the roof

Jahangir Mahal

Jahangir Mahal
According to common belief Jahangir Mahal was constructed for Jahangir reception by Veer Singh Deo (I). It is square in plan with four bastions at each corner which end in a ribbed dome at the top and have four kiosks at the corner of the base of the dome. The chajja on the corners of the first story is held by a series of elephant brackets at regular intervals on all sides. All the chambers of this palace had been decorated with paintings the remains of which are visible only in few rooms. The Jahangir Mahal is the culminating point of evolution of Medieval - Indo - Islamic architeture, an example of Harmonied imagination and organized execution.

View of Chaturbhuja Temple from Jahangir palace
Fifteen cenotaphs to the bundela kings and members of their clan are located on the southern bank of river Betwa. These include the chhatris of Madhukar Shah, Vir Singh Deo, Jaswant Singh, Pahar Singh & others. Most of the cenptaphs are designed in Panchaytan style. These are constructed on an elevated square platform. The sanctum sanctorum too is square shaped and in the center. The upper potion has been made angular with arches. The peek of the sanctum sanctorum is patterned in the nagar style of temple architecture.

3:40 PM We reached Orchcha Resort that is adjacement to Cenotaphs complex and had a quick dinner.
4:30 PM We just walked around the place for some time and then left for sagar.
8:54 PM We reached sagar and checked into Hotel Deepali. Here is my review of the hotel.